I am working on my latest Zine project- all about Zips- and thought I’d post a couple of hints about how to place a Concealed Zip in to your garment. Whilst not overly difficult, they can be enormously awkward and frustrating!! Once you have the hang of them however; they can be a handy way to create a slightly more professional looking garment, and a great thing for Cushions and Pockets.
If sewing a Dress, you will need to sew the top and bottom of the seam the Concealed Zip is going to be inserted in to, this should be illustrated in your Pattern. If your intention is to sew the Zipper in to a skirt, measure the Concealed Zip and mark the length and then sew up the side or back seam to that point.
Lay the fabric Right Side down then fold the right hand side under the left as illustrated, leaving the seam poking out. Pin the Concealed Zip, right side down, and lining the top of the Zip up with the top of the seam. Pin at a 45 degree angle if possible.
Attach the Zipper Foot to the Sewing Machine, and place the top of the Zip in to the Machine. Reverse stitch a couple of stitches to anchor then ‘roll’ the Concealed Zip away from the Zipper Foot as illustrated and sew down the length of the Zip ‘under’ the Zipper Teeth as illustrated.
My Zine, Zips, Zippers and Slide Fasteners is available now from Etsy. It is a fully illustrated guide to inserting Plain Zips, Concealed Zips and more.