I hope you are anticipating a Sunday full of Sewing, like me!
In this weeks last post for the Dimpsy T Sew-Along I shall be showing you how attach the Collar, stitch on your Facings, turn them out and Understitch them and finally get a good look at what your Dimpsy T will be starting to look like!
Firstly, with right sides together, sew the Shoulder Seams of the Facings and the Front and Back Bodice. You may notice that the pieces do not match perfectly, this is because (as illustrated above), one side is making allowance for the Seam and will mis-match by 1.5cm Allowance.
It is also important to maintain the slight curve on the outside edge of the Shoulder. This allows for the Hem to be made when sewing up the Sleeve edge.
Once sewn, Zig-Zag neaten the edge of all seams. All Seam Allowances are now mainly 1.5cm.
To attach the Collar, you will be able to match the Tailors Tack on the Fang to the Center Front Seam however; as you can see I haven’t made a Tailors Tack! This is to illustrate how you can use the Collar itself to tell you where it should be places.
I have cut the Pattern so that the Collar follows the curve of the Neckline at the Center Front- as you can see above, left. Place the left hand Fang Collar piece on the Neckline and move it until it matches as mine does. Pin.
For the right hand Fang Collar piece, you shall need to do the same- move it about until it matches the curve- however; at the same time you’ll need to check the overlap of the Collar is directly on the Center Front Seam (as illustrated above, center). Pin.
And there you have it- above, right- one beautifully pinned Fang Collar in anticipation of being stitched in place!
For the Pan Collar this process is even easier! Simply match the edges to the Center Front Seam and pin as there is no overlap.
You may notice that the Collar curve and the Neck opening curve are a little different. This is to ensure the Collar ‘rolls’ away from the Neck opening and looks as lovely as possible!
Once the Collar is pinned in place- and you will have noticed that they do not quite reach all of the way to the Center Back, which is entirely intentional!- you will need to lay the Facings, right sides together as illustrated, straight on top.
Pin the Shoulder seams so that they match first. I like to push one seam left, and one seam right as illustrated (above, right) to reduce the bulk of the seams.
Continue pinning around the Neck opening, then down the Center Back along the Keyhole detail.
I am yet again pinning at a ninety degree angle so I can stitch away when I am ready. As you can see from the below, we are going to be stitching three layers- one of which, the Collar, is a different curve- so it is extremely helpful to keep things pinned for as long as possible. That is unless you feel like tacking/basting everything… and I never feel like that!
With 1.5cm Seam Allowance, and starting at the bottom of one side of the Keyhole, sew all the way around to the other side. Remember to take the curve slowly, stopping and starting to that it is even.
Once sewn, you’ll need to clip the corners and curve as above. Clipping the corners will reduce the bulk so that they can be turned out to beautiful points, Clipping the curve releases the fabric so that once the Neckline is turned out it will curve gracefully.
Turn your Dimpsy T out the right way… doesn’t it look lovely? This is my favorite bit, as you start to get a real feel for how the final garment will be. Fabric always looks so different when it is sewn up, don’t you think?
The last thing for today’s class is to Understitch and neaten your Facing. This will help the Neckline to retain its shape and keeps the Facing magically towards the back. Pin the Facing to the Bodice (above, left), with the Collar sticking out. Do this slowly so as to ensure no pleats are pinned in.
Stitch super close to the edge (above, right) with a neat Top Stitch. Stop and start on every Pin as you’re still sewing a curve and it is very easy to stitch in a little pleat, and we need this to be as smooth as possible.
Zig-zag neaten the edge of the Facing- as above- by stitching on and off the very edge of the Fabric edge. This binds the edge of the Fabric and stops it fraying.
Iron the Collar, and the center back Key Hole detail. As you can see the Collar still stops short to allow room for the Button to be sewn on later… and because I think it looks super sweet and nice!
Hand your Dimpsy T up and admire your work so far!