All for one and one for all… the Buttons!

Despite the many, wonderful and varied costumes that we create here at Midnight Costume Services it is always the Historical Costumes that excite me the most. There is a certain amount of Indiana Jones-ing to be done with the Patterns as I hunt for resources hidden in my studio Library  and across the internet, which is always enjoyable!

This Commission was for a 3 Musketeers Cloak, inspired by the BBC TV Series…

bb8 bb9

This Cloak is secretly super cool, as you can un-button and re-button the side seams to create sleeves, or a cloak! Wicked, right?

bb11 bb10

I actually have this Pattern among my historical resources so all I had to do was locate, scale up and re-size for my Client. Above on the left you can see another version of the Pattern, with an extant example , and on the right is my Pattern.

bb1 bb7

This was a time consuming but relatively simple make to be honest, I made and lined each piece separately, made over 60 Button Holes and sewed on over 60 Buttons. The Collar was added in so my Client could wear the Cloak in a variety of ways, including off the shoulder.

bb2 bb3 bb4 bb7

I used a really beautiful Midnight Blue soft, drapey wool with matching lining and Brass effect Buttons.

For such a simple Pattern I was absurdly pleased with the results!

Happy stitching!

A little of what’s been happening…

Well, ever since Laura After Midnight changed and adapted to become Midnight Costume Services and I returned to my roots Designing and Making Costumes for Stage and Screen we have been run off our feet! My little team is gradually growing and I just got back off of my first Holiday in years to Paris… but more on that delicious adventure later!

Since Christmas we have been building Costumes for a Holiday Park including mini versions of over 15 West End and Film Musicals, dream job, right?! We were also commissioned to make 8 matching Madonna Cone Bra Corsets for some Dancers, worked on an awesome Victorian BBC TV Show and completed more work for Celebrity Cruises on three more Cruise Shows and that’s not everything… phew ‘eckers!

I’m going to be sharing more over the coming weeks as I slowly get back in to this blogging lark- it’s been nose to the grindstone a bit, with 12 hour days, 7 days a week and I do hope you can understand why I haven’t been sharing the love on here so much recently- but I thought I would start with the Anna and Elsa Costumes I shipped this Thursday… because they are a treat!!

We used the Yaya Han Corset as previously talked about for the base for all three Frozen Dresses because we knew it fitted the performers really well. It also gives a great foundation to be built upon. All skirts and Cloaks were then hand drafted to measure. The most work went into the Elsa Snowflake Dress, which took three of us about 4 days to build so I thought I’d share the process…

21 22 23

The Corset for the Elsa Snowflake Dress has been made from 4 layers of fabric to build up the look I wanted. In the animation it’s actually illustrated as if it’s layers of square sequins however; anything like that that I tried to replicate was either too expensive (budget for this dress was about £100) or just didn’t move enough on stage and looked ‘clunky’ so the decision was made to emphasis the Snowflake aspect, which I think really worked.

About 200 Snowflakes were hot knifed from the Crystal Organza to use on the Silver Glitter Body Suit, the Corset and the Cloak.

24 25 26 27

Once I started sewing the Corset together I had to get it on the mannequin almost immediately to see how it looked! It’s not often I get this excited as there’s a lot of prep that goes in to a Costume so I normally have a good idea of how it’s going to look… but this was different! The layers of Organza and Satin looked amazing once they were sewn! I also started to play around with the placement of the Snowflakes at the neckline. Super exciting!!

15 14

Once the Corset was sewn properly, the Snowflakes were attached, and then Hot Stoned with Diamante Hot Stones, which really made the whole thing shimmer.

20 17 18 11

The neckline of the Silver Glitter Body Suit was also strewn with Snowflakes and then Hot Stones, as you can see from the far left and 2nd left pictures above the Diamante Hot Stones really make the whole thing sparkle.

Untitled-1 10

The final costume was gorgeous however; because of the tight deadline we don’t have too many pictures. We shall hopefully be rectifying this soon, as we hope to soon see the costumes in action.

8 7 9

As you can probably tell, I have tried to simplify the design of these Costumes. This is due in part to budget and time constraints however; it is also because I believe there is a risk in over embellishing Disney Costumes. Often the simpler they are, the more like the cartoon they look.

Above is Elsa’s 1st Dress, which has been colour blocked with the design hand painted to the front of the Corset. The thing I’m most pleased about? The Cloak!!

1a 5 1b

And last, but not least, Anna. I love the simplicity of this dress. Love it! I think the green stripes of the Skirt work wonderfully, and in person the hand painting on the Black Velvet Corset kinda glows, it’s a shame it’s not showing up so well in the photos.

Hope you’ve enjoyed this glimpse into my fairy-tale world!

Happy stitching!

Notions: Herringbone Stitch.

MCCALLS Herringbone StitchIllustration from McCalls Sewing in Colour, 1960. 

I know this seems complicated but I use Herringbone Stitch for all my hems. I first got taught this technique when I was working at the- now sadly closed down & sold off for parts- BBC Costume Department in West London.

The reason it was being used on costumes was twofold… firstly it doesn’t show from the front, at all! Secondly, it’s super strong. If your heel gets caught & rips one stitch the rest don’t immediately unravel because of the way Herringbone Stitch is worked.


Herringbone stitch, often called Catch Stitch, is a most useful little stitch to know. As you can see from the above diagrams, it is a version of Back Stitch, in Cross Stitch form. Turn your hem up as needed, or refer to your pattern for instruction.

Firstly, thread you needle in a complimentary colour, then stitch a couple stitches ‘on the spot’ to start. This stitch is worked backwards so the first stitch you take will be through the main body of the fabric. Take a stitch from right to left but only take up a couple of threads of the fabric. This stitch should lie directly above the hem fold as illustrated.

Secondly, and roughly 1.5cm to the right of the first stitch, take a larger stitch through the fold in the fabric. Do not go all of the way through to the front. Move to the right again and take another stitch through the main body of the fabric, as illustrated, and only taking up a couple threads. Continue until the hem is complete or you need to re-thread.

The examples above I have completed in black & white, so you can imagine how the stitches disappear when executed in a complementary colour.

Happy stitching!

*This was originally posted on 19th March 2013 but I have been talking about it so much recently I thought it would be helpful to re-share! 


My Sewing Bee Challenge

Have you been watching this years Great British Sewing Bee? I love it and everyone already, I must stop being such a complete softie!

As ever, they covered such a vast amount on the first week from Pattern Matching to sewing Curves beautifully, Bias Binding and the correct application thereof (sorry Matt!) that it left my head in a spin! My favorite piece was Lorna’s Trousers. I loved the beautiful print laying diagonally across the fabric. Here at the Midnight Atelier there has also been much discussion of how nervous they all seemed, which is fair as it must be very stressful! Previous years must just have taken it all in their stride a little better, I’m hoping they settle in this week.

Well, this is all very well and good you may be thinking, but why am I prattling on about it? It’s because I have decided to challenge myself! Each week I shall be giving myself the same time limitations and re-creating the Alteration challenge right here at The Midnight Atelier and, having completed one already, I have to say it’s amazing fun!

I know I have a slightly unfair advantage in that each week I shall have longer to think about what I am planning to do simply because I have to go out and buy the supplies however; I am hoping you’ll forgive me as I intend to auction off the final pieces at the end of The Great British Sewing Bee for a local Charity. My time limit is also technically a little shorter as I have to make the piece as well as take pictures as I go so I think I’m making amends!

The minute Patrick revealed the Denim Shirt last week I thought ‘Red Gingham’, so mu so that I was very surprised no-one else did!! I blame my ultimate decision to make a Retro themed Beach Set on my new Class Schedule planning as I have lingerie on the brain… but what do you think?


I draped the whole thing on the Mannequin super quick to get an idea of the curves, then used the Cuff for the front of the Bikini, and parts of the Sleeves for the rest as I used the Front of the Shirt for the Front of the Shorts- cut so that the Buttons and Button Holes lined up to create a feature!- and the Back of the Shirt for the Back of the Shorts. Ta daa!!

So, without further ado, here’s the whole Photo Story…

gbsb2 gbsb3 gbsb4

I don’;t know who it was that said it, but making a little sketch right at the beginning of a timed challenge is super helpful

gbsb5 gbsb6

Draping the Shorts from some scrap lining fabric, and marking where I wanted the buttons, pocket etc with a felt pen.

gbsb7 gbsb8 gbsb10

Placing the Pattern Pieces on the Denim Shirt, then lining them up before I cut to make sure the Buttons and Button Holes lined up. I had to add in a Button Hole but all others worked out beautifully!

gbsb11 gbsb16

Re-sewing on the Patch Pocket at a cheeky angle! the shorts are nearly finished, just some Lingerie Elastic for the Hem!

gbsb13gbsb14 gbsb15

Draping the Bikini from the Cuff! I was so pleased about this! after I draped the Front, I marked the pieces with pins on my Dress Mannequin then traced over them to cut the real piece. Quick as anything!! I draped the Gingham insert then Cut and Spread to make the Gathers.

gbsb17 gbsb19 gbsb20

Pinning the Order of Sewing on to the Mannequin… then sewing! The Bikini took about twenty minutes to drape (and I was worried for a split second) but then only about five minutes to sew up! Voila!! Just some Ribbon straps and Gingham Ties to  finish!!

gbsb27 gbsb32

I finished with about five minutes to spare… and look at the devastation something like this wreaks upon your work space!!


gbsb25 gbsb29 gbsb28gbsb33 gbsb31 gbsb24

Such fun! I love the final outfit, and can’t wait to see what I’ll be up against tonight… eek!!

Catch up with The Great British Sewing Bee here, and don’t forget my new Class Schedule will be out on Monday and ready to book. There’s so many treats and fantastic Classes coming guys, I’m so excited!!

Happy stitching!

Notions: Hemming by Hand

I am afraid I am one of those dreadful bores of a teacher who insists that Hemming is done by hand! It just looks simply beautiful, & gives a truly professional finish to a garment that has been carefully stitched together, by hand.

I have taken this Tutorial from my Simple A-Line Skirt Tutorial because this subject has come up a lot lately and I thought a refresher was a good idea… see, I told you I was a bore about this!! 

Turn up and pin the hem 1cm (3/8″). Iron. Then turn up & pin the hem 2cm (6/8″). Iron again, then set to Herringbone Stitching!

48 49 50

51 53

Measuring & pinning the Hem up a further 2cm, then ironing. There will be slight puckers which need to be ironed plat as small pleats, to be Hand Sewn down. This will help the fabric manage the curve, whilst remaining flat in front. 

With the Hem still pinned, & nicely ironed!, start Herringbone Stitching it down…

MCCALLS Herringbone Stitch

Illustration from McCalls Sewing in Colour, 1960. 

I know this seems complicated but I use Herringbone Stitch for all my hems. I first got taught this technique when I was working at the- now sadly closed down & sold off for parts- BBC Costume Department in West London.

The reason it was being used on costumes was twofold… firstly it doesn’t show from the front (at all!) and secondly, it’s super strong. If your heel gets caught & rips one stitch the rest don’t immediately unravel because of the way Herringbone Stitch is worked.


Often called Catch Stitch, as you can see from the above diagrams, it is a version of Back Stitch, in Cross Stitch form.

Firstly, thread the needle in a complimentary colour, then stitch a couple stitches ‘on the spot’ to start. This stitch is worked backwards so the first stitch you take will be through the main body of the fabric. Take a stitch from right to left but only take a thread of the fabric. This stitch should lie directly above the hem fold as illustrated.

Secondly, and roughly 1.5cm to the right of the first stitch, take a larger stitch through the folded part of the fabric. Do not go all of the way through to the front. Move to the right again and take another stitch through the main body of the fabric, as illustrated, and only taking up a thread. Continue until the hem is complete or you need to re-thread.

The examples above I have completed in black & white, so you can imagine how the stitches disappear when executed in a complementary colour. Click here for the original Tutorial.

I like to put on a good movie and settle in when I have a Hem to do…


Detail of the Herringbone Stitch, & the completed Hem!

Happy stitching!

A-Line Skirt hack!

Hello lovelies! Having been very inspired by The Great British Sewing Bee a couple weeks ago, here is my A-Line Skirt Hack based on my super duper popular Patternless A-Line Skirt Tutorial to make an Inverted Box Pleated Skirt as they did.

The original Tutorial is amazingly simple, and I highly recommend it if you are learning to sew or want a quick make for a cute Skirt. You need just 1 and a half meters of fabric for the A-Line version, but you’ll need 2 meters for this Pleated version, which will make a knee length Skirt just as beautiful as Tamara’s was!

pleats 1

Firstly, you will need to make up the Pattern for the A-Line Skirt. In the original Tutorial this is simply drawn on to the fabric after taking a couple basic measurements (a la Chinelo!) however, for the Pleated Skirt you will need to make it up on Pattern Paper.

Once you have your Pattern, divide the waist line and hem in to three, and draw a dotted line between the markings as illustrated. Cut up these lines to separate the pieces, the tape the first piece on to another piece of paper. Decide how deep you would like your Pleats- the Great British Sewing Bee had 8cm, and I like 12cm- then measure from the first dotted line out by this measurement… i.e. 8cm. Measure and mark out along the whole line, then tape the second piece along this line, effectively moving it 8cm away. Repeat for the third piece.

pleats 1 pleats 2 pleats 3 pleats 4

Mark a circle at the top of each of the the dotted lines. This is to mark where you will need to make Tailors Tacks which will help you see where the Pleats are to be made, and keep the Skirt the same size as it is made up.

Fold your Skirt Fabric Selvedge to Selvedge (so you get a long, thin folded piece), then lay the Pattern on the Fold, pin the pattern and cut around. Move the pattern down, flip over and lay next to the Selvedge as illustrated and pin and cut again. If you have an obvious print, you will need to match it.

cutting diagram pleat skirt

Before you un-pin each piece, place Tailors Tacks on each mark. Tailors Tacks are a great way to mark your fabric without resorting to a pencil or snipping the fabric as you can with Notches.

pleats 5 pleats 7 pleats 8

To make the Pleats, fold the fabric, right sides together, so that the Tailors Tacks lie on top of each other. Pin, then press the Pleat flat, distributing the Pleat evenly each side…

pleats 9 pleats 17 pleats 15

pleats 2

… thanks to The Great British Sewing Bee for that! Once pinned, you can follow the rest of the A-Line Skirt Tutorial and sew the Skirt up.

Alternatively, and this word strikes fear in to my classes because they know what I am going to suggest will probably be exciting enough they want to do it but difficult!, you can sew the Pleats down before continuing to sew up the Skirt! I love this technique, it makes the skirt incredibly flattering, and distributes the flair about the Hip and not the Waist (which is great if you aren’t stick thin).

pleats 10 pleats 17 pleats 15 pleats 16

Fold the Pleat so that the Tailors Tack matches as before. Place the second Pin 12cm down. Using the Tailors Tack as a guide, sew straight down (for example, if you have done 8cm Pleats, you will have 4cm Seam Allowance at this point and will need to sew 4cm away from the edge from top to bottom) until you reach the Pin marking 12cm. Remember to reverse stitch at the top and bottom. Distribute the Pleat evenly on each side as before, pin and then Top Stitch down each side of the Pleat on the Front as in the last picture.

Once you have pinned your Pleats, or sewn them down, you can continue to sew up the Skirt at in the A-Line Skirt Tutorial. You can choose to sew it up with the Simple Zip method included in the Tutorial or use an Invisible Zipper, or a Lapped Zip as in The Great British Sewing Bee.

As ever, I’d love to see your makes! Happy stitching!

The Great British Sewing Bee: Week 2


Well, it all felt a little calmer this week didn’t it? All of the contestants seem to have settled down with the idea of the time limits, and we saw a lot more finished pieces! Yet again however; I feel I have been sent upon a whirlwind of Stitching terminology and techniques!

It was all about pattern this week. Matching, using, working and up-cycling with… stripes, florals, patterns!!

First up they made a Box Pleat Skirt in the Pattern Challenge however; they Inverted the Box Pleats which is infinitely more flattering. Matching those patterns across the pleats proved a challenge for many of the contestants, and I shall be addressing a couple tips on this later on in the week as well as sharing how to adapt the Simple A-Line Skirt Tutorial in to a pleated skirt.

During the second challenge- to take two Men’s Shirts and use them to create something new- Chinelo stunned me with her cute Summery top, with sculptural Bow. Patrick was quite right- to have the vision both Chinelo and Tamara had to see something that different was fantastic.

Chinelos wonderful bow!

During this week they also inserted a Lapped Zip, Top StitchedSlip Stitched– which was how Julie finished her Waistband off on the inside instead of Top Stitching- Stab Stitched, attached several more Patch Pockets, stitched up Button Holes in a trice, and stitched on Buttons even quicker, and Piped those Pyjamas in the final challenge to within and inch of their lives.

I am being well and truly put through my paces as a Seamstress here, and I can only imagine how their heads must spin after their Sewing Bee days!! If you fancy making yourself some Pyjamas, see my Tutorial here. It’s a great introduction to simple Pattern Making and, made well, Hand Made Pyjamas are a luxury and a great gift! They’re far simpler than the Pyjamas the contestants attempted however; watch out for Tutorials over the next week which will cover Piping, Lapped Zips (a great Vintage technique, which I shall be sharing from my stash of Vintage Dressmaking books), Stab or Hand Pricked Stitch, making the Perfect Bow, and Marking Fabric.

As ever, click the link above to watch the show which will be live for two whole months!! Follow along here- don’t forget to sign up for my Monthly Newsletter in the side bar which contains exclusive offers and info- PinterestFacebook and Twitter.

Happy stitching!

The Great British Sewing Bee: Week 1


Well… what did we all think?!

Click the above link to watch (it will be available to watch until the 25th of February, if you are in foreign parts you may have to search the underbelly of the Internet!) the first episode, which was a tour de force of sewing techniques!

Those poor contestants, they were well and truly worked over! From pinning, to pattern matching, not pinning OR pattern matching (I’ll be watching Chinelo with interest!), sewing Dartsclipping curves, easing fabric and under stitching and the ever present Patch Pocket; our first introduction to this years contestants was fascinating. And this was just all on the first challenge!!

I thought it was very clever to use the different fabrics for each challenge. Cotton is obviously the easiest to use, and I was surprised when a couple contestants admitted to not having used Wool before however; I thought the Silk challenge really levelled the contestants!

Over the next few days, and as promised, I shall be sharing my tips on creating Hand Made Button Loops, a simple Tunic Top and customising a Skirt. Over the course of the next eight weeks I shall also be sharing my hints and tips on working with different fabrics- and finally using my beautiful Merchant & Mills Book to make my own Tailors Ham, which is a wonderful piece of equipment to have around when working with Wool.

Has this first episode inspired you?

Happy stitching!

Sew-a-Long News and The Sewing Bee excitement!

You may have seen my post recently about the Laura After Midnight Corset Pattern release and Sew-a-Long. I have made the decision to postpone this because… deep breath of excitement…

The Great British Sewing Bee is back!!

Until about a week ago the BBC had said this would air in April, and I was organising some pop up events and blog posts etc to follow along however; they have decided to start airing from tomorrow night! Eek!! After a quick panic, I have decided to support the classes I will be running alongside The Great British Sewing Bee, which meant that the Sew-a-Long had to be pushed back as I do not want to rush it!

So, the Corset Pattern and Kit will be available for pre-order from the 3rd March, and the Corset Sew-a-Long will now take place from 7th April, and I have changed the dates in the original post to reflect this.


Do not worry however; I shall be sharing all sorts of sewing, pattern and stitchery goodness over the next 8 weeks- it promises to be quite eclectic!- and might even run up a couple quick Sewing Bee Sew-a-Longs from their new book! I have some more interviews with a couple of Independent Pattern Companies in the return of my popular Pattern Making Musings series, I shall be hosting drop in classes every Sunday and blogging alongside the programme to help highlight some of the information, tips and tricks, and choices the programme makes. The biggest comment I noticed coming out of last years Sewing Bee was that some elements were either not explained, or explained too quickly and I hope to assist in rectifying this. They only have an hour after all!!

The first show will test the contestants on the three core fabrics in a dressmaker’s cupboard: cotton, wool and silk. In the surprise pattern challenge, the sewers must create a simple tunic top from straightforward cotton. For the alteration challenge, a plain high street woollen skirt must be dramatically altered within a 90 minute time limit. Lastly, the contestants must then create a made-to-measure silk nightgown. (Original source here)

I shall be making up Colettes Sorbetto‘ Top as an excellent illustration of making up a Simple Tunic Top. I shall also be talking about grading the patterns in the first Great British Sewing Bee book, different fabric choices, their treatment, usage and wear-ability (and some top tips on where to buy fabrics!). For their alteration challenge I shall be altering a skirt I made up a couple years ago with a slightly curious hem detail which I now don’t like! I’ll be creating a scalloped Vintage style hem instead!

Because this series has been slightly sprung upon us all, I am not sure that every week will be as good as this but I shall endeavour to write as much as I can- because it’s so much fun! I really do feel that you get a little glimpse in to my life as a Costumier when viewing their 90-minute challenges!! On many an occasion I have had to sew up pieces at lightning speed, and I think this is the bit of the programme I like the best.

So, whose with me?

There are several ways you can follow along with me. I shall be continuing to Pin Techniques and Advice on to my Sewing Boards on Pinterest here. Share your makes, or take a peek at what I am up to on Facebook here, Tweet me your burning Sewing quandaries here and finally to get all the latest news, offers and general loveliness why not get yourself on to my monthly Newsletter?

I think that you will agree from the above that the wait for the Corset Sew-a-Long will be worth it as I am going to use the time to add in a Waspie Pattern, and I shall be releasing my much anticipated Button Up Spats Pattern in just a few short weeks!

Because The Great British Sewing Bee is a BBC production there won’t be any repeats from last year however; you can watch the first Series of the Great British Sewing Bee on-line in various places such as here.

If you are itching to get stitching why not have a peek at my range of Sewing Bee inspired posts. Clickhere to see all of them, but here are my favourite… …

aline 1

How to make a Simple A-Line Skirt from start to finish.


Basic Patch Pockets.


Inserting Concealed Zips.


Making fabulous Roulaeu Loops.

Happy stitching!

Notions: How to Sew a Curved Patch Pocket


Recently I seem to have been teaching students how to do various forms of Patch Pockets so I thought I’d add this little Tutorial and follow it up with some variants upon the theme including a Pleated Patch Pocket.

Patch Pockets are super duper easy but care us needed when Top Stitching the Pocket to the Main Fabric. The more preparation and care taken, the more professional and beautiful the final product- but that is true of any Sewing project taken on!

If you are following a Pattern, you will already have cut out your Patch Pocket however; if you are adding Pockets to a project, or even up-cycling a garment you will need to draw up and cut out a Paper Pattern. this is easily done- simply draw the Pocket you would like on some paper using a pencil and ruler. If you would like curved edges- I think they look lovely!- use a glass or a sauces to draw the curves in. When you are happy, add a 1.5cm or 5/8″ Seam Allowance around the sides and bottom, then a 2cm or 1″ at the top.


Pin the paper pattern to the Fabric you are going to be making the Patch Pocket from, keeping one side parallel with the Selvedge of the fabric to make sure the Grain Line is straight. Cut around the edge, and repeat if you would like to make two.

2 3 4

Iron the top of the Pocket over .5cm or 3/8″, then iron over again 1.5cm or 5/8″ so the raw edges are enclosed. Lining the edge of your Sewing Machines Presser Foot up with the edge of the fold and stitch along the edge as illustrated. Lining the edge of the Presser Foot up against the fold will keep the seam nice and straight. You may wish to use your Zipper Foot to get extra close to the edge!

6 7 8 9

Pinning directly on to your Ironing Board, turn the edges of the Patch Pocket in 1.5cm or 5/8″ and pin as shown. Pin carefully around each curve , the fabric you are turning back should wrinkle, but the front should stay flat. It is helpful to hang a Tape Measure about your neck, and measure each turn. When you are happy that the curves are perfect, carefully Iron over to ‘set’ the Fabric. Turn the Pocket over and Iron again to be sure.

Pin the Pocket onto your Main Fabric- if you are using a Pattern this will be marked. If you are adding this detail in yourself if may take a couple of goes to Pin exactly where you like them, and it may be advisable to try the garment on to make sure they are not too high or low.

10 11 12 13

On the Sewing Machine, you will need to start on the Top Stitched Hem you previously sewed and, sewing towards the top of the Pocket and at a slight angle stitch to the top of the Pocket as in the first two pictures above. Do not reverse stitch but do push the thread away from you as you start, and make sure they’re about 15cm or 6″ long.

When you reach the top, use the Balance Wheel to roll the Needle in to the Fabric. Lift the Presser Foot and turn the Fabric then sew to the edge of the Pocket. Remember that, if you do not think you can sew slowly enough, you can always roll the Balance Wheel forward to sew these few stitches by hand. When you reach the corner of the Pocket, roll the Needle into the Pocket, lift the Presser Foot and spin the Fabric as before.

Continue to sew around the Pocket. You may choose to use the Zipper Foot again however; I have used my normal Presser Foot because I find it feeds the Fabric a little more easily, especially when sewing right on the edge like this.

14   15

When sewing around corners, use the same technique as when sewing a corner. Lifting the Presser Foot, with the Needle in the Fabric, and moving the Fabric to keep an equal distance from the edge of the Pocket.

When you have reached the top edge of the Pocket, turn and sew along the top edge- the same distance at the other side- then turn the corner and stitch at an angle until you join the stitching from the side and the original Top Stitching along the top of the Pocket- as in the above picture on the right.

If you notice the Fabric is not making a perfect curve, you can use a Pin to gently push it back in to place.

Again, do not reverse stitch, but pull the fabric from the Sewing Machine and cut threads long.

16 17 18

On the reverse side, pull the thread (here white) until a little loop pulls through (here red). This is the front thread. Use a pin to pull the loop through (the middle picture above), until the front thread has been pulled completely through. You will then be able to tie in a knot to secure so that the front is incredible neat! I tie two knot just to be safe!

19 20

And you are finished!

If you look carefully at the above picture you will see the left hand Pocket curve is perfection however; the right hand is slightly squared. This will happen when the Fabric isn’t pinned correctly initially, or not corrected as it is stitched. Not preparing properly will result in a ‘squared off’ curve. Of course, you can always unpick and start again (that’s the beauty of Sewing!) however; I think you will agree that on patterned Fabric and with matching thread this would not be as noticeable. Sewing curves is all about practice, so you may wish to sew a few practice runs before stitching the real thing.

As ever, I would love to see any projects you use this technique on! You can also find more hints and tips here, and here.

If you would like to have a go at Patch Pockets, but don’t have a project, why not grab a Sewing Tidy Kit?

Happy stitching!