A rainbow of Tailcoats!

These last few weeks Midnight Costume Services have been creating 8 matching Tailored Tail Coats for a new Cameron Mackintosh revival production of 5 Guys Named Moe!

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We were sent the designs, measurements and a huuuge box of fabrics and I got started individually Pattern Drafting each Tail Coat to each performer. I drafted sizes 36” chest to a 54” chest! Wowzer!!

There wasn’t time for Toiles so my wonderful assistant Maya got to cutting the fabric- she was also on Waistcoat duty, as I had my hands full Tailoring!- and got stuck in.

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Enormous stack of fabrics… and each Tail Coat cut, interfaces and Pad Stitched.

To be honest, this might fill some Costumers with horror, but I do love a ‘run’ of Costumes. You can really get obsessively ocd and I very much enjoyed creating the Tail Coats, so different individually because of each performers size, shape, shoulder slope or hollow back, to look sharp and exactly the same.

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The Tail Coats cut, interfaced and Pad Stitched awaiting Collars.

There was an additional challenge as some of the fabrics sent were thinner than others, and yet more had a pronounced stretch which needed to be stabilized with interfacing.

Once interfaced, all were pad stitched with horse hair and cotton tape and- with a sigh of relief if I’m honest!- they started to look sharp and lovely.

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Lined up and ready for sleeves… inserting sleeves… checking the drape… arm gussets looking swish.

Inserting the collars was a little tricky as the fabric supplied was slippery however; once tamed with yet more- you guessed it!- interfacing we managed beautifully.

There was an increased amount of ease to inserting the sleeves because I wanted to create a delicious roll to the sleeve head. I think we created a beautiful, clean line, despite having gussets inserted (which are imperative for dance performers).

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Sharp, sharp, sharp! Collars in, welt pockets done, covered buttons covered and sew on.

To finish the client had requested Welt Pockets and the designs showed Black buttons. Because of the fabrics supplied we had to create faux welt pockets. We covered Buttons in the correct sizes for the Sleeve and Centre Front and, all together, I was super happy with how sharp it all looked!

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Matching waistcoats with shawl collars and matching, covered buttons.

Matching waistcoats were also made in house. Again, they were patterned individually with shawl collars and matching, covered buttons.

I can’t wait to see pictures of these bad boys in production. From what I saw of rehearsals whilst fitting, this show looks amazing!

Happy stitching!!

You can see pictures of these wonderful Costumes in their stage show here.

The Dimpsy T Sew-Along!

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Well, ladies and gents, the long awaited Dimpsy T Sew-Along starts today!!

The newest Pattern release from Laura after Midnight is a darling little Summer Top with a central Bust Dart, Kimono style Sleeves, Key Hole detailing and lots of snappy ways to learn to sew, brush up your Sewing skills or simply whip up a tip top Summertime Top in a couple hours!

Head on over to A Tangled Stitch– my Pattern Etsy Shop- to grab your Pattern right now! Use Coupon Code DIMPSYOFFER to get 15% off

We’ll start sewing next week however; we’ll be talking about sewing all week! I’ll be posting some helpful hints and tips about choosing fabric and equipment later this week but I thought I’d kick us off with the order or sewing, and what we’re going to be tackling along the way:

Week 1

Preparing to Sew, gathering your Supplies and cutting the right size. We’ll be talking about measuring for the perfect fit, discussing fabric choices and giving out some handy Sewing hints and tips about what equipment is handy in the Sewing Room, and more!

Week 2

That Dart! Just how mean was I when I designed that central Dart for the Dimpsy T? We’ll be finding out how to sew it up, with some helpful hints and tips about marking fabric and preparing to sew Darts.

Week 3

Concerning Collars! The Dimpsy T has two different types of Collar and in this Sew-Along I shall be stitching up The Fang. With lots of tips about how to sew curves, grading and clipping and lots more, this is going to be a get stuck in, nitty gritty, sewing geek kinda week! We shall complete the Collar first, then later in the week, Facings.

Week 4

Finishing and the release of the Dimpsy T Hack Book! Adding the final touches to our Dimpsy T, we’ll talk all about hemming, hand stitching and Hacks! I may even be persuaded to do another give away… cheeky!

Excited? I am! These bad boys only take a couple hours to make, and I can’t wait to reveal what other things you can do with the Pattern. We’ll be sharing our makes at the end, and you’ll be able to pin the on Pinterest for everyone to ooh over!

Happy stitching!

Work in progress…

Tonight I figured out how I’d use my Rouleau Loops… to make a beautiful collar!

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Deciding to sew up a simple version of my final design, I drew the pattern on to a piece of paper, then pinned the Rouleau Loop to the pattern & hand stitched the Rouleau where it overlapped. Quite simple in the end really!

I haven’t ironed it yet because I can’t decide if I’d like it to be flat or still rolled however; for a first attempt I am very happy. Eventually I’d like to add it to a simple top or T-Shirt but I think I’ll design something a little fancier first because I like the idea of a teeny tiny loopy edge!

What do you think?

Happy stitching!

1920s Collar

I follow a blog called We Sew Retro & one of the contributors was recently gifted the below 1920’s collars.

The collars have been in her family for over 90 years & I just had to share them because I adore their shape! I think they are stunning to look at, the intricate lace & teeny tiny rose embroidery is exquisite however; it is the shape that has captured my eye.

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Please click the photographs for the original post.

I cannot stop thinking about using the shape to add in to a beautiful bias cut top, or simple cotton vest top. I think it would look incredible! I imagine that because they hang over the shoulders slightly they would act as small cap sleeves, & that the trailing edges would frame the top most flatteringly.

Happy stitching!