It’s all about finishing this week, having tackled sewing the Boning Channels, we will be Binding, Cutting and Tipping Boning and inserting Eyelets in to our almost finished Eventide Corset!
I have chosen to sew my Eventide in the simplest method, with the Boning Channels on top (The Eventide Method). After this is accomplished, you will next need to sew the Boning Channels for the Back. If you have your Eventide Corset Book, you will have noticed these need to lie 1.5cm from the Edge Stitching at the Centre Back, then 1cm from this line of Stitching and then 1.5cm from this line of Stitching.
Again, you can use a measuring tape to mark your seam allowance guides on the sewing machine as you did for inserting the Busk. Click on the below to enlarge.
Next, you will need to continue neatening the top of your Corset, which you will have started doing when Fitting. Lay each side on top of each other, and pin as illustrated.
Stretch the Corset Top or Bottom out as flat as possible (above, centre), then cut down the sides following the adjustments you made when Fitting. Both sides should match as closely as possible (above, right).
This is also a great time to start considering any adornment you may like for your Eventide!
Now that your Corset has been cleaned up- what a difference it makes!- you will need to bind the Top before we Cut and Insert the Boning. Of course you can create your own by cutting strips of Bias Cut matching or contrast Fabric (below, left), sewing them together (below, centre) and then attaching them- with Right Sides Together- to the Top of the Corset however; there are a myriad of ready made Bias Bindings out there too.
Each strip of Self Made Bias Binding should be 4.5cm wide, and as long as you can make them (if you need to join, see the below, centre illustration). When sewing on to the Top of the Corset, you have 1cm Seam Allowance. Leave about 3cm extra Bias Binding at the beginning and end of the seam (below, right).
When the Top Bias Binding is attached, you are ready to Cut and Tip the Boning.
Draw a little diagram of the Corset (if you are using the Eventide Pattern, this will be in your booklet), then measure from the Bottom of the Bias Binding to the Bottom of the Corset (below, left). Take 2cm away from this measurement and make a note of it (below, centre). Gather up your Steel Boning, a permanent marker and Tin Snips.
Measure along the Steel Boning, draw a line where you will need to cut and write the Measurement of the Steel in permanent Marker (below, left). I like to make a note of all of the Steels I need to cut and cross them off as I do them (below, centre). This helps me not to cut too many, or one of the wrong size.
Once all of the Steels have been cut to length, cut 24 1cm lengths of Shrink Tubing. Pop a piece of Shrink Tubing on the end of the Steel, and heat with a Heat Gun or Hair-dryer until is shrinks and snugly wraps around the end of the Steel. Each piece should just cover the end of the Steel so that the sharp edge is completely protected (below, right).
Slip each Steel Bone into the relevant Casing and push until it is up against the Bound edge and about 2cm away from the raw edge of the Corset.
Sew the Bias Binding on to the Bottom of the Corset in the same fashion as you did the Top (above, right).
Iron the top of the Bias Binding over by 1cm (above, left). Pleat the excess Bias Binding neatly (above, centre), and fold in. Fold the Bias Binding over again so that the edge of the Bias Binding lies along the Stitching (above, right and below). Pin.
As you can see from the below, front view, it is obvious why Self Made Bias Binding is so wonderful! When you have pinned all four Seams, you will need to hand stitch on the inside using a Slip Stitch.
And that’s it! Just the Eyelets and Modesty Panel and your beautiful Eventide Corset will be complete! Join me later this week for this, and a couple of very interesting Interviews!
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