Notions: How to Finish a Dart

I thought today I would show you this beautiful hand finishing technique for ensuring your Darts are beautiful every time!

As I am still up to my neck in Dimpsy T samples, as well as finalizing the Pattern ready for release, I thought I would make up my very own in the gorgeous Parisian Summer fabric. Isn’t it just the best thing ever?

Firstly, you will need to sew up your Dart as usual… the Dimpsy T’s is in the middle of the bust and can look a little odd until it’s sewn…

dart1

Leave the threads long and tie as usual however; instead of cutting close, thread them through a needle as illustrated.

dart2 dart3

As close as you possibly can, thread the push the needle back in to the fabric, in to the Dart as shown below. You need to insert it in to the Dart, above the stitching and take the longest stitch you can.

dart4

Push the Needle back out and pull, then clip the Threads close. I like to ‘pull’ slightly so the Threads *ping* back in to the Dart and are hidden forever.

dart7

As you can see, the Dart is finished beautifully with no Threads visible and is ready for a final press!

This is me proudly showing off my newly made Dimpsy T…

me in dimpsyI love the combination of the Navy Collar with the Red and Navy Print, and I’m super pleased with the fit and placement of that Dart!

Pre-order your Dimpsy T here, and help me bring this sweet Pattern to life!

Happy stitching!

 

 

The future is Dimpsy!

Late in 2014 it’s what I had decided 2015 was all going to be about…

I sat down and made a little list of the things I liked to work on, the things that make my heart sing, and put a smile on my face, I mixed these with the things that actually make me money and came up with a pretty pleasing list which happened to drop all of the things which were unhealthily stressing me out! Yay! This littler list was what I decided to concentrate upon them in 2015.

The past year has taught me so many things about running a Small Business, not least ‘don’t push things that aren’t selling or aren’t making you happy’, and this year I’m trying to build Laura After Midnight into a sustainable business with which I can support myself properly, in a less living on beans kinda student-y way, whilst being happy and having some time off.

Building upon the Patterns I have already released is a big part of that, and it’s a big part I enjoy too (crazy, right? I hated Math as a kid!), and continuing along the road to joining the ranks of all of the other wonderful Independent Pattern Makers out there is incredibly important to me and I have been working away on the next design to be released this past week!

I called her Dimpsy (if you are any where near to Devon you will know this means dappled shade) and you may have noticed the Samples popping up on Facebook and Instagram! Work continues apace here at The Midnight Atelier on the new The Dimpsy T (love that name!) which now has a release date of the 24th April! Yay!

   

I had wanted to create a simple t-shirt from Jersey fabric however; after working upon a few samples and getting nowhere I remembered I hate sewing Jersey fabric! I mean, I’ll do it, and I’m not stopping anyone else from doing it, and I often sew stretch for costuming however; right now Jersey is not a fabric I’m interested in constructing garments from. As soon as I made the change to Cotton the ideas kept coming and it was difficult to choose the ones to use!

I decided to use some of my Pattern Cutting wizadry and pop the Darts at the front of the Bodice, with a little seam which runs from the Collar down to the Dart. I am all about this detailing, I love it! The Collars lie slightly either side of the Seam and just look heavenly!

So far I have designed this t-shirt to have two different Collar Patterns, a small Cap Sleeve, Peek-a-Book back detailing and that glorious Central Dart however; the T-Shirt will also be released with a Booklet of ‘Hacks’ to make this peach of a Top into a Dress, or alter the Pattern to create a Pin Tuck or Pleated detail at the front. It’s going to be so cute!

dimpsy t promo poster

Because creating Patterns is an expensive habit- I’m going to be Grading and creating about six Samples in total as well as sending out Pattern Test Samples and quite a lot more over the next few weeks, I have popped up Pre-Order listings up on Etsy to help me out! If you think you’d like to make a Dimpsy T pre-order your copy today and help me out a little in the process, just click below… In return you’ll get 10% off, an instant copy of ‘Understanding Vintage and Modern Patterns’, as well as the ‘Hacks’ Booklet for free, and it’ll be emailed or shipped to you directly on the 24th April.

PDF Dimpsy T Sewing Pattern   dimpsy pre order pdf

I’m also planning a Sew-Along and I’ll need Pattern Testers soon so watch this space over the next few weeks for more details!

Happy stitching!

PDF Flash Sale

Because of new EU VAT Regulations (boy, am I tired of typing that, and so fed up with the situation), I will have to stop selling PDF Patterns through Etsy as of Midnight on December 31st 2014. This may seem to be a knee jerk reaction to the whole Vat Mess situation however; millions of small businesses are being effected by the (ridiculous, unfair and plain stupid) change- over 3.3 million in the UK alone- and this is a precautionary step to protect myself until we can figure out what the next step it… because all sources of help within HMRC are giving conflicting, incorrect or confusing advice and no-one seems to understand how we can comply, why indeed as a Small Business/Micro Business we should comply or what the next step might be.

Just to give you an overview, from 1st January 2015 if I sell a Digital File to another EU Country I have to pay VAT there. However there are 28 countries in the EU with 75 different VAT rates… so I have to register to pay VAT in every EU Country… and often I don’t know where my Customer is. I’m going to leave it there as I tend to start angry typing and become incoherent if I add more!!

I will still be offering Patterns as a hard copy however; the new regulations will include all products by the end of the year. The best explanation of the new regulations I have found is here, please read it if you are a small business as I was convinced the 80k threshold would protect me and it doesn’t. More interesting articles can be found here and here loosely explaining the situation and a very helpful Facebook Group has been set up here.

So, why not just sell to the US? As 80% of my business is with you guys- thanks by the way!- this is a viable solution. But wait… there’s a little piece of law which says I shouldn’t discriminate against selling to a certain Country without cause. I think this is cause not to sell to the EU, expecially when historically I don’t much however; there’s another really, huge, big issue with this. I sell on Etsy, who aren’t going to help me to distinguish between Countries so I can’t do this and keep this side of my business afloat. Great.

So, we’re left with several options… just sell Hard Copy Patterns with a complimentary PDF, just sell Hard Copy, or find another platform to sell on so I can distinguish between Countries so I can only sell outside of the EU which looks like it might be a more permanent solution for the size of my business.

 

Any hoo, because of this ”VAT Mess” I’m having a Flash Sale on all PDF Patterns…

Mini Top Hat PDF Sewing Pattern Victorian Edwardian Steampunk DIY Craft Kit Eventide Corset PDF Sewing Pattern Victorian Edwardian Steampunk DIY Craft Kit

Mini Top Hat PDF (above, left) £3.25      Eventide Corset PDF (above, right) £4.25

Dusken Spats PDF Sewing Pattern Victorian Edwardian Steampunk DIY Craft Kit

**NEW** Dusken Spats PDF (above) £4.25

Costume Sewing Patterns Selection Pack inc. Victorian Corset, Steampunk Burlesque Mini Top Hat and Steampunk Spats

All three PDF Patterns (above) £10

How’s about that then? They’ll only be available for the next two days… eek!! Click the images to buy 🙂

Happy stitching