The Dimpsy T Sew-Along: Week 2

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At last, it’s time to start Sewing our Dimpsy T’s up! We’re going to start right at the beginning… with Cutting Out, Marking the Fabric with Tailors Tacks and sewing up the Dart…

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Choose which size you would like to make up by measuring yourself, and looking at the Chart on the back of the Pattern Envelope. Cut that size out of the Pattern then, following the Cutting Diagram in your Instruction Book lay the pieces out on your Fabric and pin remembering to check the Grain Lines are straight- especially important when it comes to the Collar.

Cut out around the Pattern as close as you can- adding extra fabric at this point will only make the final garment bigger. Remember to cut the Dart out at the Center Front, cut the angle of the Shoulder Seam (it’s slightly angled towards the edge as you can see in the third picture above), and the teeny tiny corners at the underarm (above, far right).

how to make tailors tacksMake the Tailors Tacks on each and every circle you can see across the Pattern as above.

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Once you have made each and every Tailors Tack (remember how I spoke about ‘batching’ things to make Sewing quicker? I start as I mean to go on!), pull the Pattern off carefully, then separate the Fabric and snip so each side is marked as illustrated.

I next like to remove every pin that is keeping the Pattern on the Fabric except one. This means that I still know what each piece is, but as I am sewing I don’t have to stop to un-pin every time I start to work on a new piece of the Pattern.

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Sew up the Centre Front Seam with .5cm Seam Allowance. If you use any more the Dart will be too big! Pin, right sides together, then Sew and neaten with a Zig-Zag as illustrated. Iron flat and to one side before attempting to pin the Dart. This will make it easier to handle the fabric and make the Dart neatly.

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With right sides together, pin the Dart along the Seam as illustrated. You may need to Ease it slightly- as I have done. Distribute any excess along the opening and pin. As you can see it looks a little ‘lumpy’. This is the excess distributed, I’ll then pull or stretch the fabric slightly as I sew to sew it flat, then iron flat. This is also a great technique for setting in sleeves!

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To sew the Dart first pull the Top Thread on the Sewing Machine very long (1), next- and whilst holding the Threads in place put the Machines Needle down next to the starting Tailors Tack, but not through the Fabric (3). Take hold of the Top Thread again and pull round and under the Presser Foot until it is laying in line with the middle and end Tailors Tacks (4). Start Sewing- with 1cm Seam Allowance- along the line made by the Top Thread (5), ensuring it passes through the middle Tailors Tacks (6).

Do not reverse at the end, but pull the threads long again and hand tie for a beautiful finish. A more detailed Tutorial upon this can be found here.

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Once you have sewn the Dart, Zig-Zag along the edge as before the Iron. It will naturally want to Iron ‘up’ towards the Neckline.

And that’s it!  I think a well deserved Cuppa is in order, I know I’m going to make one! Watch this space for further Sewing musings from myself later this week!

Don’t forget to share your Dimpsy T’s with me on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram!

Happy stitching!

The Dimpsy T Sew-Along!

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Well, ladies and gents, the long awaited Dimpsy T Sew-Along starts today!!

The newest Pattern release from Laura after Midnight is a darling little Summer Top with a central Bust Dart, Kimono style Sleeves, Key Hole detailing and lots of snappy ways to learn to sew, brush up your Sewing skills or simply whip up a tip top Summertime Top in a couple hours!

Head on over to A Tangled Stitch– my Pattern Etsy Shop- to grab your Pattern right now! Use Coupon Code DIMPSYOFFER to get 15% off

We’ll start sewing next week however; we’ll be talking about sewing all week! I’ll be posting some helpful hints and tips about choosing fabric and equipment later this week but I thought I’d kick us off with the order or sewing, and what we’re going to be tackling along the way:

Week 1

Preparing to Sew, gathering your Supplies and cutting the right size. We’ll be talking about measuring for the perfect fit, discussing fabric choices and giving out some handy Sewing hints and tips about what equipment is handy in the Sewing Room, and more!

Week 2

That Dart! Just how mean was I when I designed that central Dart for the Dimpsy T? We’ll be finding out how to sew it up, with some helpful hints and tips about marking fabric and preparing to sew Darts.

Week 3

Concerning Collars! The Dimpsy T has two different types of Collar and in this Sew-Along I shall be stitching up The Fang. With lots of tips about how to sew curves, grading and clipping and lots more, this is going to be a get stuck in, nitty gritty, sewing geek kinda week! We shall complete the Collar first, then later in the week, Facings.

Week 4

Finishing and the release of the Dimpsy T Hack Book! Adding the final touches to our Dimpsy T, we’ll talk all about hemming, hand stitching and Hacks! I may even be persuaded to do another give away… cheeky!

Excited? I am! These bad boys only take a couple hours to make, and I can’t wait to reveal what other things you can do with the Pattern. We’ll be sharing our makes at the end, and you’ll be able to pin the on Pinterest for everyone to ooh over!

Happy stitching!

The Marks & Spencer Shwop & Sew Lab

On the 20th June, I shall be setting up shop inside Marks & Spencer’s, Broadmead as part of The Bristol Big Green Week! Excitement!!

I’ll be running two Workshops, the first being for Beginners to Up-Cycle a T-Shirt in to a Shopping Bag or Infinity Scarf, the second for more intermediate Sewers will turn a T-Shirt into a Shirred Skirt or Tunic! All T-Shirts are being donated by Oxfam, and the event is completely free BUT it’s first come, first served so you’ll need to get in fast!!

You can see all of the details here, and the full Schedule is below:M&SYes, you can meet the winner of The Great British Sewing Bee! Eek!! And just look at all of the good things you can come along to learn, Up-Cycle or repair. I shall definitely be hanging around to take a peek at the Refashion Competition and for Matt’s talk (and a cheeky glass of something!).

I’ll be sharing the makes over the week as I put together the samples and instruction sheets so watch out! I love the idea of Up-Cycling all of those old T-Shirts into useful Shopping Bags (did you know the UK stops giving Shopping Bags out for free at the end of the year? Well, we do so make your own re-usable one now!!).

See you there, can’t wait to meet you all.

Happy stitching!

The future is Dimpsy!

Late in 2014 it’s what I had decided 2015 was all going to be about…

I sat down and made a little list of the things I liked to work on, the things that make my heart sing, and put a smile on my face, I mixed these with the things that actually make me money and came up with a pretty pleasing list which happened to drop all of the things which were unhealthily stressing me out! Yay! This littler list was what I decided to concentrate upon them in 2015.

The past year has taught me so many things about running a Small Business, not least ‘don’t push things that aren’t selling or aren’t making you happy’, and this year I’m trying to build Laura After Midnight into a sustainable business with which I can support myself properly, in a less living on beans kinda student-y way, whilst being happy and having some time off.

Building upon the Patterns I have already released is a big part of that, and it’s a big part I enjoy too (crazy, right? I hated Math as a kid!), and continuing along the road to joining the ranks of all of the other wonderful Independent Pattern Makers out there is incredibly important to me and I have been working away on the next design to be released this past week!

I called her Dimpsy (if you are any where near to Devon you will know this means dappled shade) and you may have noticed the Samples popping up on Facebook and Instagram! Work continues apace here at The Midnight Atelier on the new The Dimpsy T (love that name!) which now has a release date of the 24th April! Yay!

   

I had wanted to create a simple t-shirt from Jersey fabric however; after working upon a few samples and getting nowhere I remembered I hate sewing Jersey fabric! I mean, I’ll do it, and I’m not stopping anyone else from doing it, and I often sew stretch for costuming however; right now Jersey is not a fabric I’m interested in constructing garments from. As soon as I made the change to Cotton the ideas kept coming and it was difficult to choose the ones to use!

I decided to use some of my Pattern Cutting wizadry and pop the Darts at the front of the Bodice, with a little seam which runs from the Collar down to the Dart. I am all about this detailing, I love it! The Collars lie slightly either side of the Seam and just look heavenly!

So far I have designed this t-shirt to have two different Collar Patterns, a small Cap Sleeve, Peek-a-Book back detailing and that glorious Central Dart however; the T-Shirt will also be released with a Booklet of ‘Hacks’ to make this peach of a Top into a Dress, or alter the Pattern to create a Pin Tuck or Pleated detail at the front. It’s going to be so cute!

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Because creating Patterns is an expensive habit- I’m going to be Grading and creating about six Samples in total as well as sending out Pattern Test Samples and quite a lot more over the next few weeks, I have popped up Pre-Order listings up on Etsy to help me out! If you think you’d like to make a Dimpsy T pre-order your copy today and help me out a little in the process, just click below… In return you’ll get 10% off, an instant copy of ‘Understanding Vintage and Modern Patterns’, as well as the ‘Hacks’ Booklet for free, and it’ll be emailed or shipped to you directly on the 24th April.

PDF Dimpsy T Sewing Pattern   dimpsy pre order pdf

I’m also planning a Sew-Along and I’ll need Pattern Testers soon so watch this space over the next few weeks for more details!

Happy stitching!

New Sewing Courses!

Phew! I have just finished updating the Class Schedule, and I have to say I am mighty proud of this one!

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There’re Classes for beginners and more advanced Sewers alike, and I have tried to plan in fun projects like the Playsuit Course or Beginners Dressmaking Course which both have three different Patterns to choose from (and they’re all great, I promise!), as well as Project Days including an Introduction to Patchwork Day and the completely awesome and fun T-Shirt Project Day.

You guys who have already been stitching up a storm are also catered for and can choose from the Sew Anything Course– which starts soon!- as well as Lingerie, Corset and Vintage Pattern Courses. I’m almost envious, but I get to be there too, yay!

I also have a Social Media Training for Small Businesses Seminar which I am completely thrilled to be offering. I seem to spend a lot of time spouting off about how important SEO is, why I try to maintain an Editorial Calendar and why everyone with a Small Business should Blog in the first place, as well as blithering on about Internet Marketing and all the many minutiae of running a Small Business in this wondrous Internet age that I thought I would  share all of the bits and bobs I have learnt over the years to help y’all out!

Click here for more information but loosely this seminar will feature group discussion and worksheets plus handouts for future reference and is the perfect next step for your Small Business as you build your Brand and start to create more business through your website, shop and in person! It’s going to be such fun guys, I’m hopping with excitement!!

Places are limited by space so I’d book quick for all of the Courses and Classes.

Happy stitching!

Moving on up into 2015!!

2014 was an exceptionally busy, stressful and chaotic time for Laura After Midnight! From exceptional highs, and very low lows’ I learnt so much, and can’t wait to get my teeth into 2015…

To be honest the year started out fine and dandy, then around August two of the contracts I had- teaching Sewing at establishments across Bristol- ended very abruptly… just after I had signed the lease on my very first shiny new Studio! To say this put my financial situation into an interesting position is a slight understatement, but then something magical happened in September… I had scrambled to put a short Sewing Course List up of my own in a effort to keep myself up and running (I had never intended to teach from the Studio as I felt it was a little too small), and people started booking! People I had never met found me, liked the look of what I was doing and paid to be taught. I actually can’t put into words how happy this made me feel, and I will never forget the rush of excitement and gratitude I felt when I discovered the first Course had sold out!

With a couple extra Sewing Machines, one of which was donated by a Sewer I had taught who was moving back to the U.S., two more bought by my Mum and Dad, and a quick trip to Ikea the Midnight Atelier and Workroom was born… and I started welcoming some truly fantastic people along to nerd out about Sewing!

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Packing up and moving the old Studio to the new Workroom with a wonky trolly, determination and copious amounts of Tea! (above, left) The moment I realised I was stuck in the lift and had to take a picture between giggling! (above, centre) The last thing to be taken out, the cheerful Red, Black and White Bunting I made when I signed the lease but still had to wait a week to move in the the old Studio (above, right). 

In just four months this side of my business has grown exponentially, and a couple of weeks ago I signed the lease on a new space. Another huge step for me as the space is larger, and I can fit more students in, offer different types of Classes as well as having room to work on another aspect of Laura After Midnight: Pattern Making.

In 2015 I am intending to expand the current Patterns I offer within a broad ‘Costume/Alternative’ theme, which will draw on my experience as a Costume Designer and Maker. I’d also like to start Blogging and writing about this a little more as it is by far the most talked about aspect of what I write and teach about, and I think it is incredibly important I talk some more about advanced techniques in Sewing. There are many, varied Blogs and Websites talking about Sewing, but not many explaining more advanced techniques for the Beginner or Intermediate Sewer.

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The day the Chaise Longue I scored on Ebay for just £30 arrived! It’s Edwardian, needs recovering but I love it! (above, left) Me, all proud in my huge new space, full of ideas and plans and so excited I could skip! (above, centre) Moving day! It went in a little neater than I had hoped and will have to be carefully covered as I start the renovations (above, right). 

You may be wondering why I want to teach this side of things and there are two reasons… the first sounds very egotistical but I’m super proud of it too- I’m really, really good at Pattern Cutting! I also love it, and this leads me to the second reason (which is slightly more complicated)… I am tall, like 6” tall, and every Pattern I have made up since I was 14 I have had to adapt. I’ve been adapting Patterns so long I can’t remember who taught me but it was probably my amazing Mum. Currently I have to add in up to 4″ to the length, which means I have to adjust where Darts are, Armholes, Seam Lines and… and …and. The list is endless so when I got my first introduction to Pattern Cutting at 16 I don’t think anyone will be surprised that I consumed it! In teaching I have noticed that my average student isn’t the average shape. They’re tall like me, larger, short, all sorts of variations and they have often gravitated to Sewing as a way to create clothing which looks better on them. The Beginner or Intermediate Sewer often doesn’t understand why that then doesn’t look as amazing as they had hoped and I would love to start illustrating the process of how you can sculpt Patterns and Garments to not just look good on you, but make you look fantastic!

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Snapshots as I set up the new space… more on this to come in the next few weeks!

I also saw record sales on Etsy towards the end of 2014 however; received the nastiest and demanding messages from buyers who could not or would not understand I hand make my products and there will always be a waiting time, especially when shipping internationally! This was a huge contributing reason for my temporarily closing Laura After Midnight on Etsy in December, which after the stress of dealing with such abuse was a sad relief. In combination with the new EU VAT Regulations I am left unsure of the direction I need to take selling online and have decided to take a break from this side of Laura After Midnight whilst HMRC and various other Governments across Europe duke out how everyone will deal with the VAT Issue. It will give me time to Blog more and start designing Patterns as well as finishing Patterns and Kits which have long been set aside so the start of 2015 should be a very exciting time!

Places are booking up fast for the new Courses, as well as spots at Sewing Club, so if you are Bristol based check them out quick! Don’t forget you can pop along to Crochet Club– which starts on 10th January- for free and join me and others in creating Crochet goodies (I’m quite, quite obsessed!). Join Bristol Sewing Club on Facebook, or the Newsletter for up to date information too.

I wish you all love, luck and fun stitching times in 2015 and if you have contributed to the Laura After Midnight story so far, thank you.

Happy stitching!

 

Top 5 posts of 2014!

Well readers, it’s been an interesting year! These are the posts published in 2014 which have been viewed time and again… thank you!

Whilst that’s self explanatory, I’d also like to say that the Pattern Free A-Line Skirt Tutorial and Pattern Month Tutorials beat these posts by a Country mile (but were published in 2013, so don’t count) however; this has made me so happy because I shall be concentrating on Pattern Cutting, Drafting and Making Up in the near future as I start to design and sell more Patterns.

I am so excited about this. I’ve got a new computer, new workroom and new passion and drive after a very hard end of the year which had left me questioning pretty much everything. But more of this later… on with the show!

1.

Simple Sewing: How to Make a Patchwork Cushion

cushion43This is a fantastic make for any young or new Sewers out there, and you end up with a pretty fantastic Cushion at the end of the make too… and who doesn’t like a Patchwork Cushion?! You can make this with a couple of Fat Quarters and some backing fabric too so it’s pretty cheap. I love Patchwork for instilling straight lines and perfectly sewn seam allowances, I’m such a dreadful old bore of a teacher!

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See the original Tutorial here.

2.

Corset Month

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Following on from the release of my very first Sewing Pattern- the Eventide Corset Pattern- this March I did a Sew-a-Long for the next month with hints and tips to sew up your very own Eventide! With such a fantastic reception (and despite the evil new VAT regulations)  I shall be releasing more Patterns in 2015, all of which will have a slightly Victorian/Edwardian or unusual flavour. I can’ wait!

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See the first article here which has links to all of the posts.

3.

5 Tips for Product Photography

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Covering tips on Backdrops, placing your Products, Framing, Lighting and Editing Software it’s no wonder this tutorial is so popular! It’s part of an occasional series and was recently followed by 5 Tips for Craft Fairs.

See the original article here.

4.

Notions: Concealed Zips

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The first entry from the Notions Series, which is (or is supposed to be!) a weekly photo tutorial on a specific technique. Lamentably abandoned in recent months, I will be resurrecting it as soon as I can as they are ridiculously popular, and exceptionally useful in class! It is no surprise to me this is the most popular as Concealed Zips are a problem for a lot of Sewers’, I’m just pleased this has helped a little bit!

See the original Tutorial here.

5.

The Sorbetto Top from Colette

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Who else is looking forward to The Great British Sewing Bee in 2015? This is a post I wrote to accompany last years Sewing Bee, when they made a simple top… which covered an awful lot of Sewing Techniques! A lot of my students were left in a spin and I like the Sorbetto for teaching these techniques, whilst making a garment from not much fabric (also known as, if it mucks up, don’t worry it didn’t cost too much!). Covering making Bias Binding and sewing it on, Slip Stitching, Understitching and a couple other techniques this is a most informative little post and the Pattern is still free over at the Coletterie! Wow!!

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See the original Tutorial here. Added bonus, click here to see my Interview with Sarai from Colette!

Well, that was 2014, I didn’t do so bad upon reflection. I am trying hard to think which was my favourite post from 2014 and I think it has to be this one. There’s much to look forward to in 2015, and it all started in that little Studio!

Happy stitching!

Notions: The Sorbetto Top from Colette

My lovely new issue of Love Sewing Magazine has just arrived- a much anticipated event!- and I have just been reading the article written my Sarai of Colette (click here to see my Interview with Sarai last year) about making their free PDF Sorbetto Top. It reminded me that I wrote a little about making my Sorbetto up earlier this year for The Great Bristish Sewing Bee!

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I am completely in love with this Pattern! The scoop neck is just right, the armholes and straps fit wonderfully- they’re a pretty interesting shape to be honest,  and the fit and flair of the side seams is just perfect. I decided to Self Bind, meaning I hand made Bias Binding from the same fabric to finish the Neckline and Armholes however the hem is simply neatened and machined. Simple, and all sewn up and hand finished in under two hours!

As I said, this is a free PDF Pattern and I highly recommend it! The BEST thing? It only took an hour, yippeee!!

The essential tricks needed for a simple top like this are basic machine skills, good ironing and some simple hand stitch knowledge. Any top like this will only have two pieces- a front and a back- so a lot of the work you do will be in the neatening of the raw edges about the armholes, neckline and hem. Facings are one way to go however; Bias Binding is a another choice which I feel can make the garment look a little more unique. You can choose to Self Bind as I have, use a contrast, satin or even a lace edged binding!

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Pin, and stitch the Bias Binding Right Sides Together on to your garment (Colette’s pattern instructions for the Sorbetto take you through this step in detail). Lay flat, and push the Seam and Bias Binding away from you as illustrated above right.

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Fold the top of the Bias Binding down by the amount of Seam Allowance you have (normally 1.5cm/5/8″), and pin. Then fold again to lie next to your original Seam. Pin parallel as shown.

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 Thread a needle with thread twice as long as you need. Fold in half. Thread the loop through the Needle, and pull longer than the other threads (above left). Take a stitch through on of your machine stitches, and a small amount of the Bias Binding (above right) and, before the thread has been pulled though entirely, thread the needle through the loop and pull tight. this will anchor your thread.

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Continue down the length of the Bias Binding, taking stitches through the machine stitching and edge of the fold of the Bias Binding. Do not worry about making them teeny tiny, even lengths are better and mine are normally about 1cm or 2/8″ long. When you come to the end or need to re-thread simply thread your needle through the loop of a stitch to tie a knot.

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And there you have it, a nice simple Slip Stitch to finish any garment beautifully.

Pressing- not ironing!- is also essential and I have found a wonderfully demonstrative article on why ironing should be a firm part of your Sewing knowledge here. She makes quite the case doesn’t she boys and girls?!

A few notes on pinning (which was hotly contested during The Great British Sewing Bee!) and why even this Seamstress still does it… … it means you often don’t have to hand tack pieces together. It is also a great way to keep things in place as you sew that may alternatively slip out of place. You can use Pins to easily control ease in a garment. They’re gorgeous, have you seen Merchant & Mills selection recently?! They’re invaluable when sewing darts and finally, they are often what helps a beginner or intermediate Sewer create a more professional garment. About the only time I don’t use pins is on straight seams I am piecing quickly. Having said all of that, use pins wisely as they can mark delicate fabrics- so pin in and parallel to the Seam Allowance- and sewing machines can snag on them.

Finally, to Under Stitching. A sadly neglected art I am afraid, and even I am guilty of doing this and just pressing the Neckline down! No more! Here is my Tutorial to make us all Under Stitching superstars!!

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Pin the Facing to the Neckline and stitch the seam according to your Pattern Instructions. If you pin at a right angle the sewing machine will happily sew over the pins- especially useful when sewing curves! Remove the pins, and clip in to any curves.

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Fit the Zipper Foot on to the sewing machine and, on the Facing side, and making sure the clipped seam lies underneath the facing, stitch round nice and close to the edge as illustrated.

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 The Under Stitch will immediately make the Facing ‘roll’ towards the back so that, with a little press, the facing will sit invisibly behind the front. Lovely!

The image to the far right clearly illustrated the technique of sewing the Seam Allowance at the same time at the Facing.

Don’t forget to take a peek at Laura After Midnight on Pinterest, I have a great collection of free patterns and sewing projects over there from all corners of the globe! Remember that all Laura After Midnight Patterns are also available at PDFs here!

Happy stitching!

Notes from the Atelier

I recently noticed that I don’t really talk a lot about what I do, sew and create on a day-to-day basis. Well, readers that is all about to change!!

Welcome to the first ‘Notes from the Atelier’, a brief update of all things Midnight-y and just what shenanigans I have been getting up to in the week!

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This week I have been sewing up Spat orders for Etsy, working on my soon to be released Spats Pattern, sewing up a whole host of Eventide Corsets which will be on sale at the end of Corset Month, and stitching up a couple things for me to wear- which is always a little bit of a shock as I never seem to have time to do this really! I lament this fact almost on a daily basis… I teach so many people each week to make wonderful items of clothing and yet never make myself anything!!

Aah, the trials and tribulations of a professional seamstress and occasional Costumier!

Spats have been super dooper popular this week, and I have finally started work on a new range. I am calling them Drainpipe Spats as they do not have the graceful curved turn down of my original Spats. I think they look a little more Victorian because of this, and I can’t seem to stop myself putting rows of Buttons down them… no matter the pain of that many Button Holes!

Here’s a sneaky peekie of the Eventide Corsets! As well as these awesome fabrics (I’m so in love with the below left!), I am working on a beautiful Sinful Red Satin Waspie as well as a Black and White Stripe Satin Corset to die for! I love each and every one, and can’t wait to share them with you all!

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If you fancy making up your own Eventide, check out the Kit here.

I have also just received my very first piece of Shop display equipment! A lovely dress form, she’s so pretty! But she needs a name so watch out for a little competition coming soon. In other news, The Eventide Corset will soon be stocked at Vena Cava Design, which I am over the moon about! They’re a company I have ordered Corsetry equipment from for years, and I am super proud that they have chosen to stock me.

So, all in all, it has been quite an exciting week at Midnight Atelier. Long may it continue… I’m off to write this weeks series of posts for Corset Month. It’s all about boning, yay!!

Happy stitching!

Week 2: Inserting the Busk Pt II

So, having perfectly inserted the Right side of our Busks in to our Eventide Corsets, today I shall be showing you how to insert the Left.

I think this is a little simpler than the Right, but should still be sewn with care. You will need your Awl for this bit.

Place the Left hand side of the Front Corset panels Right Sides Together and draw a line 2.5cm from the Front as illustrated. Again, using a Patternmaster will make this easier.

Sew along the line, remembering to reverse stitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Iron, with the Seams out and then roll the Front Fabric  around to the Back as you did for the Right hand side so that no Coutil can be seen from the Front. Pin.

Stitch a 5mm (or half a centimetre) seam along this Front edge- shown below right- this line is now our Centre Front Line of the Corset. You may need to attach the Zipper Foot to your Sewing Machine to see where you are sewing a little more clearly.

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Place the Right side, over the Left side, and in line with the Seam you have just stitched (below left). Using a Fabric Pencil mark through the holes of the Busk Hooks… if your fabric is highly patterned you may need to use pins. Mark- or pin- at the far edge of the Busk Hook as illustrated.

Take away the Right hand side of the Corset.

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Next, you will need your Awl. On the mark, push the Awl through the two Fabric layers- NOT the Coutil layers- until a hole has formed.

The aim is to gently push a hole and not snap any of the threads of the Fabric, as this will keep the structural integrity of the Fabric. If a hole is punched, or many threads snapped, when the Corset is worn and the Fabric put under stress the hole will rip larger and look incredibly messy.

When you have made a hole, from the back push the correct Busk Post through (the two together should be at the bottom as for the Right side of the Busk). This needs to be done gently so as to not damage the Fabric.

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When all of the Busk Posts have been pushed through (below left), pin the Busk hard in as you did for the Right hand side of the Busk.

Attach the Zipper Foot to your Sewing Machine, measure the Seam Allowance and make a mark on your Sewing Machine as you did before.

Stitch along the edge of the Busk from top to bottom of the Corset panel (below right).

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Easy as pie, right? And look… it’s a Corset Front! So pretty… …

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So, it’s not all that difficult. Just remember to stitch nice and close to the Busk so it is held in nice and tight- not baggy! Remember also that it can be unpicked at any moment if you are unhappy.

At this point you may find your Fabric has ‘stepped’ or mis-aligned. Do not worry about this too much. It can be trimmed at the end of the sewing up process and is quite common as the Corset is sewn up. In fact, the Eventide Pattern has been made a little longer than necessary for this very reason.

Join me again tomorrow next week as we start to stitch the Corset up, and fit it to your figure. Also watch this space for a cheeky little Book Review of one of my favourite Corset Books and more Sewing Tips.

Don’t forget, the Eventide Corset Pattern is available in a number of options including Instant Download here, and you can join in with Corset Month on FacebookTwitter (#corsetsessions) and Pinterest!

Happy stitching!