A rainbow of Tailcoats!

These last few weeks Midnight Costume Services have been creating 8 matching Tailored Tail Coats for a new Cameron Mackintosh revival production of 5 Guys Named Moe!

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We were sent the designs, measurements and a huuuge box of fabrics and I got started individually Pattern Drafting each Tail Coat to each performer. I drafted sizes 36” chest to a 54” chest! Wowzer!!

There wasn’t time for Toiles so my wonderful assistant Maya got to cutting the fabric- she was also on Waistcoat duty, as I had my hands full Tailoring!- and got stuck in.

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Enormous stack of fabrics… and each Tail Coat cut, interfaces and Pad Stitched.

To be honest, this might fill some Costumers with horror, but I do love a ‘run’ of Costumes. You can really get obsessively ocd and I very much enjoyed creating the Tail Coats, so different individually because of each performers size, shape, shoulder slope or hollow back, to look sharp and exactly the same.

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The Tail Coats cut, interfaced and Pad Stitched awaiting Collars.

There was an additional challenge as some of the fabrics sent were thinner than others, and yet more had a pronounced stretch which needed to be stabilized with interfacing.

Once interfaced, all were pad stitched with horse hair and cotton tape and- with a sigh of relief if I’m honest!- they started to look sharp and lovely.

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Lined up and ready for sleeves… inserting sleeves… checking the drape… arm gussets looking swish.

Inserting the collars was a little tricky as the fabric supplied was slippery however; once tamed with yet more- you guessed it!- interfacing we managed beautifully.

There was an increased amount of ease to inserting the sleeves because I wanted to create a delicious roll to the sleeve head. I think we created a beautiful, clean line, despite having gussets inserted (which are imperative for dance performers).

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Sharp, sharp, sharp! Collars in, welt pockets done, covered buttons covered and sew on.

To finish the client had requested Welt Pockets and the designs showed Black buttons. Because of the fabrics supplied we had to create faux welt pockets. We covered Buttons in the correct sizes for the Sleeve and Centre Front and, all together, I was super happy with how sharp it all looked!

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Matching waistcoats with shawl collars and matching, covered buttons.

Matching waistcoats were also made in house. Again, they were patterned individually with shawl collars and matching, covered buttons.

I can’t wait to see pictures of these bad boys in production. From what I saw of rehearsals whilst fitting, this show looks amazing!

Happy stitching!!

You can see pictures of these wonderful Costumes in their stage show here.

Hail to the King!

Midnight Costume Services is finally at the end of a long run of Costumes for an Entertainment Park, and this job comes to a close with a Panto! Dick Whittington… and I thought I’d share the process of making some of the pieces, like King Rats Tail Coat!

Easily my favorite Costume to make so far, I decided to loosely Hand Tailor the Tailcoat to support a couple of incredibly dramatic Shoulder Pads. To get the right look I played about with layering existing Shoulder Pads and felt but in the end- even though it was more work- I had to resort to a more traditional technique and ended up layering the felt in decreasing sizes to build up a pointed, exaggerated Shoulder. As you can see in the first picture using the existing Shoulder Pads looked super clunky!

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Using a mixture of hand stitching, machine stitching and a little bit of glue, each Shoulder Pad has about 20 layers of felt and is quite malleable, allowing me to gently sculpt a curve. I haven’t some this in a while and I was super pleased with the results!

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I found some (pretty disgusting, but amazing for the purpose!) quilted fabric which I thought looked a little like Bin Bags… it’s the kinda thing I thought the King of Rats’ would have a tailored jacket out of!! In a concession to the performers I created the sleeves from a stretch Leather- which is why they look a little like they’re pulling- but means the Jacket will fit multiple performers and wont restrict movement.

The mannequin this is pictured on is a little too large, but I think it still looks majestic!

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I find Panto a difficult beast to design for, I want to do character analysis to find their motivation and design around that, which doesn’t really work here. It’s all a bit too tongue in cheek, shiny and primary coloured for me but in starting with King Rat I helped myself a lot! Deciding that as a character he would have had quilted and embroidered bin bags fashioned in to a Tailcoat got me on my way.

I also fashioned medals and ribbons for the lapel, because of course he would be decorated!, and used lace and matt black sequins to applique and embroider detailing in the lapel and jacket. With a final sprinkling of darkly glittery hot stones and a Top Hat I think he turned out to be quite the dandy!

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The hat was hand stitched and created using strips and fragments from the Tail Coat machine embroidered on, with layers of sparkly net and sequins overlayed. Slightly battered- he does live in the sewers after all!-the ears were made from faux fur, a lot of dye and sprayed dye.

As I have a commission to create a White and Gold Louis XVI Sun King Tail Coat I am really pleased this turned out so well. The Sun King Tail Coat will have to be much more viciously tailored to create a base for a spectacular Gold Feathered Shoulder Piece, and I can’t wait to share it!!

Happy stitching!

A li’l treat!

Yes! Gift Vouchers are now available! Available in £10, £25 and £50 denominations, they would make a fantastic gift this Christmas towards one of my Sewing Courses… get dropping those hints peeps!

You can purchase on the Class Schedule page, and for your bucks you’ll receive on of these luscious Gift Vouchers in a scrummy envelope with a Mini Bunting Sewing Kit, all wrapped up in a bow!

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The Bunting Kits will be Christmas themed as we get closer to the Festive Season (I have some amazing Christmas Fabric stashed away, yay!). What a treat to get… you could make the Perfect Pair of Jeans with them or learn to Pattern Cut on my Springtime Skirts Course. I have a few more courses for the new year up my sleeve too, what fun!

Happy stitching!

Have you seen…?

I’ve added some new courses to the Class Schedule! I’m so excited you guys, I can’t tell you!

I have been looking around and checking out what Sewing Courses are about and I have tried to think of some new ideas, or maybe a new way of teaching something and I think I have come up with some cracking ideas. Places are extremely limited in my little Workshop so book quick!

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In the next few months you can join Courses making Secretary Blouses and Wiggle Skirts, which would be the perfect Course if you are looking to start Sewing or step up in to making Clothing, a beautiful Vintage style Coat for the adventurous Sewer, a great introduction to Pattern Drafting in the Springtime Skirts Course which will help you draft a Basic Skirt Patten then teach you to make several different Patterns and Skirts all fresh and ready for Spring and the Perfect Jeans Course which, you guessed it!, will help you make the perfect pair of Jeans!

Running alongside the 4 and 6 Week courses are day classes covering UpCycling, Mending and Alterations, Christmas Present making and ReVamping your Pad making Cushions, Patchwork and Quilting and Basic Curtain Making. If you would like to get a taster of the Courses I run, or would like to see if this Sewing craze is for you these Courses are perfect! Book more than one at a time and get a cheeky little discount too.

I am head over heels in love with the Christmas Present making Workshops as I have been hand making my family and loved ones Christmas Presents for years. It’s something that, in this day and age of austerity, fair trade and mass production concerns I think actually makes a difference. One or two beautifully, carefully hand made presents make Christmas special and they don’t have to be generic- why not make Pyjamas for everyone as I did last year? Or maybe a Kitchen set of Apron, Pot Stand and Oven Gloves all beautifully Quilted? Maybe Soft Toys, Bibs or a Hat for a little one, or a Monogrammed Cushion? You could however; choose to make Stocking Fillers- and the Stocking for them to fill!- of Tote Bags, Ties and Bow Ties, Patchwork Coasters, Vintage Head Scarves or Scrunchies, or even Zip Pouches stuffed with their favourite soaps  and more. Each Workshop comes with a set of instructions so you will remember what to do when you get home!

Excited? Me too! Click here to book, and I very much hope to see you soon!

Happy stitching.

Wordless Wednesday

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Nicolas Ghesquière‘s lingerie-inspired tailored jackets and dresses for Balenciaga […] has been brought to life once more in an illuminating editorial shot by Nick Knight for Pop Magazine.

Please click the picture for the original link.

Happy stitching!